Prop adapter fitment..

Tricky one this..  My life was made easier as I didn't have a sprocket to remove and the nut was finger tight. 

Just finger tight for now, I cannot tighten as I need to put it in gear and need some resistance to get it to like 70+ nm which is going to be impossible on the bench.

Fitting Oil Cooler sandwich Plate

Everyone has said oil cooling is a must!!  Apparently on a track day keeping the oil cool with a standard setup can be a problem so thought instead of messing around lets just fit the cooler from the start. 

I removed the old oil filter, I will replace this before filling with oil but for now this one is fine.  

Heres the sandwich plate, its very well made. I just made sure there were no metal shards left from manufacturing. The seal goes on the engine block side. I covered in oil to help with the fitment. 

Sandwich plate in place, its a bit of a pain trying to keep the seal in place and not to trap it. I tighten to fixing bolt up to 26nm as per the filter, I need to make sure this is correct. 

Oil filter and hose attachments fitted on. Really impressed with the simple design and quality of the kit. Still need to tighten the hose fixings, will do this when in the car.

Fitting water pump delete kit..

Now the mechanical water pump has been removed I need to fill the hole left in the side of the engine. I am fitting AB Performance's water pump delete Kit.

The kit consists of a new seal, a small blank that goes in the while, and then a plate that holds the blank in place, plus the screws. Not keen on the colour but never going to see it anyway.

I trial fitted the blank without a washer first, its a pain to get out again so be warned. Well unless you take the sump back off and push it out from below. 

New seal goes on, I covered in oil to make fitting easier. It just pushes straight in nice and snug. 

Fixing plate in place with the enter bolt pushing the blank into place. The threaded bolt has an allan head to help you tighten it. The bracket bolts were torqued and loctite in place. 

Removing the water pump

I won't be using the mechanical water pump so I need to remove this.  I made sure most of the coolant had been removed before proceeding. Most of the pipes felt empty. 

The Haynes manual tells you mark up the hose, metal clips and pipework, I marked the pipework and clips. 

The pipes are a pain in the arse to get off, I ended up using a screw driver to prise them off, don't think I have damaged the pipes just couldn't get them off by pulling alone.

Remove the three fixing bolts and the pump should just pull right out. I was careful as the pump was still full of coolant.

Once the pump is removed it leaves a bit hole in the side of the engine. Next is to fit the water pump delete kit..  

Trial fitting billet sump.

So I am waiting for three seals to turn up. One for the main oil pickup, and another two for the oil pipe. I wasn't going to trial fit the billet sump, I was just going to fit it first time but I'm glad as I did as slightly more involved than I first thought. 

The baffle goes in first, then the oil pipe. 

The the oil pick up gone in,  with the seal, just need to make sure the seal is coated in oil. Then the sump itself goes on. There is a small cut out the oil pickup slots into.  At this point I only loosely connected 3-4 bolts.

Decided to cover the lower part of the sump in take to avoid damaging it while the engine was on the bench. Do this after you fit it else the bolts are a nightmare to get in.

To fit the lower section the pick pick up and to be in the middle of the hole of the top sump section else the bolt holes just don't line up. As i'd only loosely fitted the top sump bolts it was easy to move the oil pickup.

I fitted a few more bolts to screw both parts. Really pleased I did a trail fit else I would have got liquid gasket everywhere. I think I still will but at least it should be better.

Once the seals turn up next week I will finish this off.

It actually sits on the sump now without falling over. The original sump won't do this.

Prepping engine to fit billet sump

So had a crack at fitting the billet sump tonight. Removed the standard oil pick up and tried to fit the baffle plate but it would go on until you remove the oil pipe first as it sits in between. Thought I could just fit straight on without removing any other parts which is annoying. 

The pipe has two seals at either end. The Haynes manual recommends you replace these seals when refitting. Going to get some advise from AB Performance as this could delay things as I need to source the seals.

Managed to order the seals from a local bike spares place. It's 2 minutes down the road from where I work so very handy. Oil pipe seals were pence, the oil pick seal was like £4 (thought I'd treat the new pickup to a new seal). Will confirm part numbers when they turn up. 

Lots of new goodies.. (Delivery from AB Performance turned up)

The delivery from AB Performance turned up today.. Lots of exciting new parts

The billet sump is pretty impressive. It comes in four parts, the main sump, the lower sump which holds the sump plug, then you get a stainless steal baffle and an oil pick up.

The Haynes manual recommends Three Bond 1207B to fit the sump. AB did not supply this product. 

Gave the two billet parts a bath..  There was still a fair amount of aluminium swarf that I needed to wash away.

Prop adapter..

Billet sandwich plate, this claims up between the engine block and the oil filter.  Looks really well made. 

Oil Cooler.. its a Mocal Heavy Duty Oil Cooler - 13 Row.

Stainless steal braided hose and fittings, its one length of hose which I will calculate the lengths I need and either cut myself or send back to AB to cut and fit the fittings for me. Its horrible stuff, Andy warned me on the phone but managed to stab myself with the metal braiding just moving it around.

Water pump delete kit.

Electric water pump