Propshaft & Electric reverse final fitting

I had to push the back section of the prop back onto the spline. It was very tight, I used a hammer and a bar again to push it back into place.

When fitting the nordlocks on the prop flange to the diff it pushed the heads out so far the head of the bolts not caught on the reverse mounting plate.  I had to file down the plate to give them room.

Loctite high strength applied, then tighten up.

Reverse motor fitted, used my two plates to move it further forwards. I also purchased some longer high tensile bolts.

Prop Shaft / Prop Shaft Bearing

Now I have the engine in properly, diff in, reverse all ready to be bolted in its time to get the prop shaft fitted properly and the bearing installed. 

With the bearing in the correct position, I used some tape to mark the location but it was difficult to work out where the bolt holes were located so instead I used some sticky foam tape to show the bolt holes.

I used a strap to support the other half of the prop from the roll cage which worked really well.

Here it is bolted in place... Now to work out how to push the spline back together.

Propshaft in the tunnel..

Now the propshaft is split and in the tunnel.. I can start investigating how it fits on the engine and how the bearing needs to be bolted down.

Prop Shaft Splitting

After removing the diff I tried to fit the prop from the rear but there was no way it was going in without splitting it in half. 

I have no experience with prop shafts and I have never split one. Read all over the internet but couldn't find anything in detail. I stumbled on a thread on locostbuilders of someone removing a 17mm nut to get it in two. 

On further investigation on the prop shaft I found the nut.

Heres the 17mm nut, the washer is bent up to stop it coming undone.

I made sure I marked a few areas, I wasn't really sure what was coming apart so I made a few references. The props are pre balanced and if it's taken apart and not put together back the way was it won't be balanced. I've heard if unbalanced it can shake the car to bits.

I knocked the washer down so I could undo the nut.

Once undone a little way the retaining clip could be removed. I didn't take the nut all the way out.

I used a 1/2 drive bar to put pressure on the bolt to push the bearing off the spline.

The final part I had to do in a vice, by this time I had pretty much unwound the nut and I had no more leverage to press on. I used a couple of loose nuts to help push the remaining spline out.

Finally it came off..  :)

The prop shaft now fits in perfectly, the part with bearing goes in from the front, the other from the rear.

I had to tighten up the nut on the sprocket adapter, I used my bar (previously made to hold it in place when I replaced the clutch plates) as before to hold it in place I could then tighten the nut. High strength threadlock on the nut to hold it in place. There is a small mount of play on the prop adapter, apparently this is normal, its called end float play. Apparently the later CBR models require some play to stop the nut coming undone.

Fitted some temporary bolts, need to get some cap head ones I believe.

DIff out (On my own this time)

So I've been thinking about how to fit the prop shaft. After a couple of trial fitments there was no way it was going in from the engine side.

I had previously fitted the diff with my Father, we fitted it as if it was the final fit but unfortunately I wanted to see if the prop shaft would go in complete from the tail end. When fitting the diff with my Father I supported it from below and my Father lifted it in from above.

On my own this time I setup the jack under the diff, I was going to use the jack to support the weight but I wasn't happy as its such a small surface on the diff which is already unbalanced. So I used a strong stool with a few pieces of wood to give a good base to support the diff. Was certainly a better way of doing it, no stain and nice and safe. I will put it back in this way.